3D-Scanning-System.pdf

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3D Scanning System
3D Scanning System
Written By: Andrew Lewis
TOOLS:
Band saw (1)
Drill (1)
Drill press (1)
Hacksaw (1)
Hex wrench (1)
PC (1)
Screwdriver (1)
Soldering iron (1)
Super glue (1)
or epoxy, or other contact cement
PARTS:
Aluminum sheet (2)
Rigid sheet plastic may suffice, but I find
metal easier to work with and more
durable
Spray mount adhesive (1)
or glue stick
USB socket (1)
Copper pipe (4)
Plastic ball casters (6)
Bolts (9)
Bolts (4)
Photographic gimbal head (1)
Socket (1)
inline mounting
Mono jack socket (6)
panel mounting
Hook-up wire (1)
Diode (1)
Bipolar stepper driver/motor combo (1)
You can also use an Arduino
microcontroller with a suitable motor
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3D Scanning System
shield, from makershed.com.
Plastic worm drive (1)
Nylon gear (1)
Steel shaft (1)
Flange ball bearing (1)
Project enclosure (1)
Power supply (1)
Aluminum sheet (1)
USB A to A cable (1)
Voltage regulator IC (2)
Resistor (1)
I used these with the LM317 to get 4.5V;
your resistor values will depend on your
laser's voltage needs. There's a handy
calculator at reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-
Calculator.htm. Aim low on the voltage,
since lasers can be quite fussy about
maximum voltage.
Cast phono plugs (2)
Copper pipe (2)
Laser line generator (2)
I found 5mW, 5V infrared line laser
modules cheap on eBay.
Plumbing end caps (2)
Hot glue (1)
and/or setscrews
SUMMARY
The last couple of years have seen an explosion in home fabrication, with fantastic projects
like RepRap and Fab@Home really helping to bring the open source community together.
Unfortunately, 3D scanning — in many ways the flipside of the home fabrication coin —
seems to have fallen by the wayside.
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3D Scanning System
I decided to start the 3D scanning ball rolling by creating the SplineScan computer-controlled
turntable. The turntable uses a gearbox for precise positioning, and has fixings for lasers,
lights, and cameras. The obvious use of the turntable is for 3D scanning, although it can be
adapted very easily to rotate objects for accurate photography or interactive display.
I’m currently using the turntable to archive and measure ancient artifacts as part of my
Ph.D. studies (http://www.mara-3d.org), and I have to say that I’m very happy with the
results so far.
The parts list might look a bit daunting, but the project is not difficult to make. The scanner
itself consists of 3 main parts:
Chassis
This is the backbone of the scanner. Everything fits onto the chassis, and it needs
to be rigid enough to withstand the weight of all the other components, and whatever you
intend to put onto the turntable.
Gearbox
This part takes the turning force of the stepper motor and turns it into something
more suitable for our needs. It’s a simple design with only a few components.
Electronics
The brains and nerves of the scanner allow you control the turntable from your
computer. The wiring is not difficult, and only limited soldering knowledge is required.
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3D Scanning System
Step 1 — Make the chassis.
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3D Scanning System
Drill 4mm holes in the corners of the top and bottom plates, to accept the 65mm bolts that
hold the chassis together. The 6 larger holes along the longest sides of the top plate are
for the ¼" audio jacks. The outer diameter of the jack may vary depending on the brand
you use.
Use the exploded parts diagram and the template to decide on the hole sizes for the other
parts of the chassis. Hole sizes will vary depending on product brands, and the best rule
(after "measure twice, cut once") is to start small and drill bigger if need be.
The small oblong marked on the top template is just a guideline for positioning the USB
socket. The best source of USB sockets is a computer port extender that fits inside your
computer and connects to the motherboard . Most computer shops have these on the
shelf, but the design isn’t standard and the mounting holes can be in any position. If you
want to fit your USB socket to the chassis, now’s a good time to mark and drill the holes
using your socket as a template.
The 2 aluminum plates are held together by 75mm M4 bolts and spaced apart by bits of
copper (or plastic) pipe. The exact diameter of the pipe is not important. Cut four 65mm
lengths of pipe and put one at each corner of the top and bottom plates. Feed the bolts
through the corner holes in the top and bottom plates, and secure them temporarily with a
nut. Make sure everything lines up correctly, and then disassemble the parts again.
Now that all the holes are drilled, you can apply any finishing touches, like painting the
copper and aluminum, and polishing any plastics.
The turntable is supported by 6 plastic ball casters, which can be pushed into place at this
stage. These should be a tight fit, but a little glue won’t do any harm.
Install the six ¼" jacks, which go down both sides of the top plate; these will let you use 2
laser modules in various positions. With that done, you can turn your attention to the
gearbox and motor.
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